History of Skin Care Part 11: The High Middle Ages, 1000-1399

History of Skin Care Part 11: The High Middle Ages, 1000-1399

Feudal skin care: Subtly refined

The High Middle Ages was characterized by the development of a feudal system in most parts of Europe. Countries were ruled by kings and queens and their land was divided into smaller segments administered by feudal lords. The farmers who worked the land were called serfs, and their job was to serve the lord whose land they occupied. Although religious doctrine continued to promote modesty, skin care became increasingly sophisticated during this period. In fact, the Great Crusades in the name of Christianity introduced Europeans to a number of medicinal herbs and spices not seen since the days of Roman occupation. Women went to greater lengths to achieve the perfect complexion, and science was combined with superstition in the development of new lotions and skin care treatments.

While fashion underwent subtle changes in the Middle Ages, clothing remained remarkably similar. Clothing for men and women became more figure-hugging and revealing, but it was still important, especially for women, that the entire body remained hidden. The face remained the focus and led to new skin care methods being constantly developed and improved. Women continued to pluck their hairlines and eyebrows to emphasize the forehead, and fair skin was still an indicator of wealth and beauty. Some women even went so far as to bleed their faces to keep their complexion as pale as possible.

The Return of the Crusaders

The First Crusade began in 1095 and was approved by the Pope. Knights from all over Europe traveled to the Middle East with the intention of retaking Jerusalem in the name of Christianity. While the Crusaders failed to reach their destination, they did manage to open a trade route between Western Europe and the Middle East. Europeans suddenly had access to many spices, minerals, and other materials that were previously unavailable. Many of these materials were medicinal and could be used to make skin care products, lotions, and oils. In fact, medieval Europeans discovered many of the same substances that the Romans did when they expanded into Turkey. The astringent alum was reintroduced to treat skin blemishes and abrasions. Frankincense and myrrh have been rediscovered for their moisturizing and skin healing properties. Anise and walnut bark have also been incorporated into many new treatments. (You can read more about Middle Eastern spices and herbs here: http://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/200605/natural.remedies.of.arabia.htm )

Science and superstition

In the High Middle Ages, many skin care treatments combined medicinal herbs with superstitious practices. Pharmacies continued to be the main dispensers of ingredients and facial treatments, although many women continued to make their own lotions and potions at home. A number of facial treatment recipes from this period have been preserved. Many of these involve making a poultice or tea bag-like poultice with spices and herbs and soaking the poultice in wine, vinegar, or milk before applying it to the skin. While most of these applications relied on natural ingredients, many of them were expected to produce almost magical results. For example, one application should completely eliminate freckles. Another claims to eliminate facial deformities. Some treatments even used gemstones like amethyst, which were believed to have magical properties. (You can read more about herbal and homemade facial treatments here: http://rosaliegilbert.com/skincare.html )

One of the greatest cosmetic advances during this time was the development of pale pink makeup made from plant dyes. The extraction was painstaking work as only a few drops of dye could be squeezed out of each plant. This made the makeup both incredibly desirable and incredibly expensive. Most women couldn't afford it and continued to wear their faces. However, it became fashionable for noble women to add a touch of pink to their otherwise pale cheeks.

While the Middle Ages can easily be dismissed as a time of ignorance and superstition, many common skin care practices from that period remain in use today. Ginger and aloe, ingredients commonly used in medieval facial treatments, are equally common in modern skin treatments. While amethyst is no longer rubbed on skin blemishes, many branches of alternative medicine use minerals and metals in their treatments. In the end, many cosmetic practices that began in the Middle Ages were used throughout the Renaissance and for centuries to come.