Under the microscope: Do UV nail polish dryers damage DNA?

Under the microscope: Do UV nail polish dryers damage DNA?

Gel manicures and the danger of UV nail dryers

In the world of beauty, gel manicures have become extremely popular due to their long-lasting and shiny appearance. But as with many things in life, there is often a trade-off between convenience and health. Researchers at the University of California San Diego are now casting a shadow over the safety of these coveted manicures by highlighting the potential harm of UV nail dryers commonly used in nail salons.

Under the microscope: Do UV nail dryers damage DNA?

The nail dryers in question use a specific spectrum of ultraviolet light (340-395 nm) to accelerate the drying and curing process of gel manicures. Previous concerns about UV devices have focused on tanning beds, which operate in a slightly broader spectrum (280-400 nm) and have been shown to increase the risk of cancer. However, the exact spectrum used in nail dryers has remained largely unexplored.

Ludmil Alexandrov, a professor at UC San Diego, pointed out the negligence in the use of these devices: "If you look at how these devices are presented, they are marketed as safe, there is no reason to worry... But to our knowledge, no one has actually studied these devices and researched how they affect human cells at the molecular and cellular level until now."

But the latest findings are a wake-up call. Using three different cell lines, the researchers found that just a 20-minute session under these UV devices resulted in significant cell death, between 20 and 30 percent. With increased exposure for three consecutive sessions, cell death increased significantly, affecting between 65 and 70 percent of exposed cells.

Even more alarming, the damage was not limited to cell death. The surviving cells showed clear signs of mitochondrial and DNA damage, leading to mutations similar to those seen in human skin cancer cases. Alexandrov summarized the disturbing sequence of events: DNA is damaged, some damage remains repaired, leading to mutations that arise every time a UV nail dryer is used. The exposure even led to mitochondrial dysfunction, which could lead to further mutations.

Practical concerns: From laboratory data to personal decisions

For Maria Zhivagui, a postdoctoral researcher in Alexandrov's lab and the study's lead author, the results had more than just academic significance. A former devotee of gel manicures, Maria had incorporated them into her routine and appreciated their longevity and appearance, especially due to the frequent wearing of gloves in the experimental laboratory. But when research illuminated the destructive effects of radiation on cells, she was shocked.

"When I saw the effect of the radiation emitted by the gel polish drying devices on cell death and that it causes cells to mutate even after just a 20-minute session, I was surprised. I found this very alarming and decided to stop using it," Zhivagui shared.

The study's roots can be traced to an unusual inspiration: an article in a dentist's office. Alexandrov read about a young beauty pageant contestant who was diagnosed with a rare skin cancer on her finger. Fascinated by the rarity, Alexandrov immersed himself in the medical literature. He found sporadic but disturbing reports of unusual finger cancers in people who frequently received gel manicures, such as beauty queens and beauticians. This trend pointed to a possible carcinogenic culprit: UV nail dryers.

To rigorously examine this hypothesis, Zhivagui conducted an experiment with the three cell lines. The cells were exposed to UV light both short-term and long-term. Even under short-term exposure conditions, cell death, DNA damage and mutations were clearly evident. The increase in reactive oxygen molecules responsible for DNA damage and mutations underscored the risks. Genomic profiling confirmed these results and revealed mutations typically observed in melanoma patients.

Beauty has its price: the dark side of the UV spectrum

The inherent appeal of gel manicures lies in their longevity and flawless appearance. But as our understanding grows, it's becoming clear that this sought-after beauty treatment could come with a high, unseen price. When we think of UV radiation, tanning beds often come to mind. But as this study has revealed, nail dryers, which have largely gone unnoticed, may be veering into dangerous territory.

Tanning Beds vs. Nail Dryers: A Range of Concerns

Tanning beds have long been identified as a health risk. They emit a UV light spectrum (280-400 nm) that is considered carcinogenic. Nail dryers, on the other hand, have so far been ignored despite using a UV light spectrum (340-395 nm) that is alarmingly close to the harmful range of tanning beds. This begs the question: Have we overlooked a significant health risk?

How often is too often?

Should you actually be concerned about occasional gel manicures, or is the alarm reserved only for those who get frequent treatments? Further research is urgently needed to delineate the exact risks. But with a plethora of cosmetic alternatives, many believe it's prudent to err on the side of caution.

The authors of the study don't beat around the bush for long. Based on their data and reports of rare hand cancers among frequent gel manicure practitioners, they postulate a significant cancer risk from UV nail dryers. They compare the danger to that of tanning beds and suspect a potential for early onset skin cancer. The call for large-scale epidemiological studies is clear, even if the results could take over a decade to fully materialize and inform the masses.

Do it right for your nails: UV-safe options for a perfect result

While gel manicures promise a long-lasting shine and reduced chipping, the potential risks of UV nail dryers should not be overlooked. It is important to find a balance between the appeal of a perfect manicure and the health of your nails and skin.

1. Limit UV exposure: Occasional gel manicures may be a treat, but frequent exposure of nails and skin to UV light could be riskier than you think. Consider stretching out your gel manicures and using regular nail polish every now and then. Not only will you reduce your UV exposure, but you will also give your nails a break and promote their health.

2. Shorten curing time: Did you know that not all gel polishes require the same curing time? Next time, ask your manicurist if it is possible to dry the polish under the UV light for a shorter time. This small adjustment can significantly reduce your UV exposure over time.

3. Apply sunscreen: Before putting your hand in the UV nail dryer, apply a layer of broad-spectrum sunscreen to the back of your hand and fingers. This acts as a protective barrier